Triple-Distilled Style Defined

We frequently hear the term distilled in reference to the production of fine spirits, but I wanted to elaborate a bit on a term I coined, "Triple-Distilled Style".  Dictionary.com defines distillation as "to extract the essential elements of; to refine." How many times have you seen a product at retail and wondered how the hell did that thing make it this far?  To me, making great products is not so much about restricting the creative process, as it is critically editing down ideas using multiple filters. 

In this case, I wanted to work on some cool, sports-inspired, back panels to ensure our jackets were unusually attractive from both viewpoints.  I drew a basic jacket back and quickly replicated it via computer.  Then I made several copies and began sketching different arrangements of details.  This was a brainstorming stage, so there was very little mental editing and I ended up with about 36 sketches.

From those 36 sketches, I selected about 10 that I felt were top contenders.  I drafted a jacket back pattern and then made a pattern for each variation.  Each of these was then sewn up into a mock-up panel that I could pin onto a basic jacket and review on the form or on hangers as shown.

From those ten mock-ups, I landed on seven backs to sample, some of which needed minor modifications to achieve the desired effects. These were then made into actual jackets, which I finally reduced to four.  Seeing the details on the body and how they move allows the final level of refinement.  Elastic is added at certain points to ensure action pleats function and then automatically snap back into place.  Yokes are adjusted to make sure they appear perfectly horizontal based on the figure of our fit model.  Finally, I traveled to the factory to review each jacket in person with the patternmaker and tailors. Some of these details have not been cut for over 100 years, so combining my engineering and cutting experience with that of seasoned tailors and bespoke pattern cutters really allowed us to leverage a tremendous amount of knowledge to make exceptional products. 






A prototype in progress

 Unfortunately, I'm not sharing all of the results of that collaboration with you just yet. Great things take time, attention and ultimately love.   But rest assured this "Triple-Distillation" process; 36 sketches to 10 mock-ups, 10 mock-ups to 7 samples, 7 samples to 4 actual approved styles, which then undergo further refinement, yields beautiful and well-designed clothing.  These elements of style, historically inspired, and meticulously crafted, are perfect for making a little history of your own.

Dream freely, think critically, respect and honor the needs of your clients and suppliers. I'd like to think maybe someone will wear one of those jackets to a first date with his wife-to-be, or on a 50th anniversary dinner with his high school sweetheart. My motivation always comes from the center of my chest, from my son, my beautiful wife.  And with those thoughts, I humbly offer garnish for the lovely and rich life I sincerely hope you are living.

Be Free.

Gentlemen's Vintage Show Recap

I hope you all got a chance to go to the 1st Gentleman's Vintage Show last week, it was hopping.  There were all kinds of tasty bits and pieces to send you straight to the front of the style line.  I only had a few hours to work the show, so my first goal was to get a quick overview of the vendors. New York based, Amacord always has great pieces and it was at their booth I found this amazing jacket.  This garment had several details that instantly grabbed me.  I'm a big fan of smartly-cut, short jackets.  Modern bomber style jackets (with rib bottoms) are usually hip length, because companies try to make their clothing appeal to as many people as possible (overly democratic). The outside of this jacket is a dense twill fabric which feels like wool and polyester with a little nylon.  The interior lining is all wool. There are no hand pockets.  I think the deep pockets were made for holding folded paperwork since this jacket was part of a  delivery uniform from the Duvenoy Bakery. There's also a stitched pen pocket on the left side.  The sleeves are angled forward at the elbow which makes sense, as the wearer probably spent considerable time driving or carrying things, both action that require a bent arm position.  The collar has an interesting partial stiffener in it that makes it roll nicely.  I'm going to make a pattern from it next week.  I'm thinking a nice wool herringbone and some pleated pockets for our version. 

As a maker, there were so many awesome details and good ideas it was both inspiring and humbling all at once.  It definitely made me more committed to produce as much as possible here and just appreciative of American manufacturing overall.  Bobby of Boston had amazing Regatta jackets and an entire booth full of vintage ivy-league inspired goods. I picked up a few pocket squares and a scarf tie there.  The Archive, who was also at the women's vintage show, had top notch vintage pieces.  There were a couple of 1930's suits that were dreamy.  Next show I hope to find out what vendors do rentals, since I'm always interested in capturing authentic details from these clothes and offering them in shapes that fit the modern man.  

I'll definitely give you advance notice of the next event and in the meantime make sure to visit and support your local vintage dealer. (Your wallet and your woman will thank you).  They preserve an essential part of our history and remind of us of the great legacy that we all continue to take part in.

The 1st Annual Gentlemen's Vintage Show

Alright men, it's like Christmas in November.  If you need a few select accessories to impart some new life into your wardrobe, you can't miss this event.  Good clothes cost good money, so for most of us that means having a somewhat limited wardrobe, but a few new bowties, pocket squares and a good fedora can totally elevate your style. 

Take a tape measure or if you have a friend who sews, that's even better. Make sure to look inside the garments.  Many older garments have "outlets". This extra fabric at the seams  would allow the garment to be let out as the wearer grew. This goes for pants hems too.  You only need 1/4" allowance to hem a pair of pants. This is done by using another fabric to create a facing. So keep that in mind too.  (Contact me if you need details!) Finally, remember cost per wear. A fifty-five dollar vintage bowtie, you can wear twenty times a year and look great in for the rest of your life is a good deal.  Even if you change your mind after a few years you can recover some of the expense on E-bay. Oh, and the cost-per-wear concept only works if you buy classics.  Fashionistas are forever at the mercy and whim of fickle designers, whose primary responsibility is to ensure you and your cash go seperate ways.  If their style sense is so good, why does it change year after year?

Happy Hunting and hope to see you there!

An easy, elegant daytime look using vintage pieces with a few top quality new pieces. Fedora is vintage Dobbs, I think  I paid around fifty dollars for it. My shirt is the Keswick collar custom fit from Prohibition Clothing.
The suspenders are vintage and cost around twenty five dollars. Trouser are the Ellington Drape trousers also by Prohibition Clothing.

Iconic American Denim Style

You can't talk about American style without mentioning denim.  From it's humble, utilitarian roots, it has risen to the pinnacle of fashion and has an almost cult-like international following.  So every brand has to consider how it's pieces mix in with denim.  I wanted to bring you a few pictures of our pieces mixed into a unique vintage look.  There are so many cool ways to play these looks, I'm really excited about seeing how our customers do it their way. Here's a few interpretations of mine:

 Even in denim, I like to keep it elegant, sporty, and vintage-inspired by using a lot of small flourishes. I always start with great shoes and here I'm wearing a dark wash pair of Levi's with a boot cut over cap-toes from Allen Edmonds.  My shirt is our Kent (Button-down) collar in a lavender oxford. I paired this with a navy & lavender Repeal Club tie in a nice full windsor knot. The vest is our Barrymore Classic in a navy pinstripe flannel. I dropped in a lilac gingham pocket square as an extra little flourish. The tortoise shell reading glasses are unfortunately a neccesity, but these from Classic Specs do look nice. Finally, our vintage newsboy cap in Tan Herringbone.

In the next pic you'll see I'm working off the same base.  It's great to be able to build a lot of different looks from a few key pieces. My shirt is our Chatham (Polo) collar in a cranberry vintage stripe. The jacket is our workhorse, the Period Perfect Navy Blazer.  A nice bowtie, a pocket square, and I'm elegant enough for reservations,  but still easy enough for a few whiskey cocktails at the Clover Club. Oh, and since I'm almost a gentleman, I'm rarely sans a cap. My current fave is this tan herringbone newsboy.                                       

The final outfit is a sporty, narrative outfit inspired by the Great Depression. Overalls were common attire for working men and merchants. I've stepped mine up a bit by adding a Chatham collar shirts and bowtie. I draped a pocket square in the pocket and on the left strap used a vintage pin that reads "vote dry". Finished with my cap du jour.  Don't miss the heavy brogue boots! I promise to some more specialized blogs on shoes and how to go spiffy to spectacular using small accessories to set your style apart.

Manhattan Vintage Clothing Show (Oct 21st & 22nd)

Looking for a few select pieces to elevate your style?  Make sure you check out the Manhattan Vintage Show happening on Fri and Saturday this week.
Measure a few garments you have that fit well and write down the key measurements, then make sure to take a tape measure to the show.  This will help you assess garments you can't try on.  You should also pay attention to the seam allowances and outlets that allow a garment to be altered.  As a maker, I'm always looking for interesting details and finishing touches that lend an air of authenticity to the clothes we make.
Hope to see you there.

Prohibition Clothing presents the Iconic T-Shirt

We just received a re-order of the Iconic Tee Shirts and they are now available at the pop-up shop. Front image features key elements of Prohibition cleverly interwoven into a storied Nouveau graphic.  Back has the "Repeal Club" logo.
100% Cotton, Designed in Brooklyn, and made in the USA.

Prohibition Clothing Sale on Iconic Ties

Based on our ebay pop-up store stats, quite a few people have these iconic ties on their wish list, so we're reducing the prices to $38.00 for the next 10 days.  I'm seeing (and wearing) a lot of bow ties now, but a nice full windsor still tugs at my heart strings.