Triple-Distilled Style Defined

We frequently hear the term distilled in reference to the production of fine spirits, but I wanted to elaborate a bit on a term I coined, "Triple-Distilled Style".  Dictionary.com defines distillation as "to extract the essential elements of; to refine." How many times have you seen a product at retail and wondered how the hell did that thing make it this far?  To me, making great products is not so much about restricting the creative process, as it is critically editing down ideas using multiple filters. 

In this case, I wanted to work on some cool, sports-inspired, back panels to ensure our jackets were unusually attractive from both viewpoints.  I drew a basic jacket back and quickly replicated it via computer.  Then I made several copies and began sketching different arrangements of details.  This was a brainstorming stage, so there was very little mental editing and I ended up with about 36 sketches.

From those 36 sketches, I selected about 10 that I felt were top contenders.  I drafted a jacket back pattern and then made a pattern for each variation.  Each of these was then sewn up into a mock-up panel that I could pin onto a basic jacket and review on the form or on hangers as shown.

From those ten mock-ups, I landed on seven backs to sample, some of which needed minor modifications to achieve the desired effects. These were then made into actual jackets, which I finally reduced to four.  Seeing the details on the body and how they move allows the final level of refinement.  Elastic is added at certain points to ensure action pleats function and then automatically snap back into place.  Yokes are adjusted to make sure they appear perfectly horizontal based on the figure of our fit model.  Finally, I traveled to the factory to review each jacket in person with the patternmaker and tailors. Some of these details have not been cut for over 100 years, so combining my engineering and cutting experience with that of seasoned tailors and bespoke pattern cutters really allowed us to leverage a tremendous amount of knowledge to make exceptional products. 






A prototype in progress

 Unfortunately, I'm not sharing all of the results of that collaboration with you just yet. Great things take time, attention and ultimately love.   But rest assured this "Triple-Distillation" process; 36 sketches to 10 mock-ups, 10 mock-ups to 7 samples, 7 samples to 4 actual approved styles, which then undergo further refinement, yields beautiful and well-designed clothing.  These elements of style, historically inspired, and meticulously crafted, are perfect for making a little history of your own.

Dream freely, think critically, respect and honor the needs of your clients and suppliers. I'd like to think maybe someone will wear one of those jackets to a first date with his wife-to-be, or on a 50th anniversary dinner with his high school sweetheart. My motivation always comes from the center of my chest, from my son, my beautiful wife.  And with those thoughts, I humbly offer garnish for the lovely and rich life I sincerely hope you are living.

Be Free.

Gentlemen's Vintage Show Recap

I hope you all got a chance to go to the 1st Gentleman's Vintage Show last week, it was hopping.  There were all kinds of tasty bits and pieces to send you straight to the front of the style line.  I only had a few hours to work the show, so my first goal was to get a quick overview of the vendors. New York based, Amacord always has great pieces and it was at their booth I found this amazing jacket.  This garment had several details that instantly grabbed me.  I'm a big fan of smartly-cut, short jackets.  Modern bomber style jackets (with rib bottoms) are usually hip length, because companies try to make their clothing appeal to as many people as possible (overly democratic). The outside of this jacket is a dense twill fabric which feels like wool and polyester with a little nylon.  The interior lining is all wool. There are no hand pockets.  I think the deep pockets were made for holding folded paperwork since this jacket was part of a  delivery uniform from the Duvenoy Bakery. There's also a stitched pen pocket on the left side.  The sleeves are angled forward at the elbow which makes sense, as the wearer probably spent considerable time driving or carrying things, both action that require a bent arm position.  The collar has an interesting partial stiffener in it that makes it roll nicely.  I'm going to make a pattern from it next week.  I'm thinking a nice wool herringbone and some pleated pockets for our version. 

As a maker, there were so many awesome details and good ideas it was both inspiring and humbling all at once.  It definitely made me more committed to produce as much as possible here and just appreciative of American manufacturing overall.  Bobby of Boston had amazing Regatta jackets and an entire booth full of vintage ivy-league inspired goods. I picked up a few pocket squares and a scarf tie there.  The Archive, who was also at the women's vintage show, had top notch vintage pieces.  There were a couple of 1930's suits that were dreamy.  Next show I hope to find out what vendors do rentals, since I'm always interested in capturing authentic details from these clothes and offering them in shapes that fit the modern man.  

I'll definitely give you advance notice of the next event and in the meantime make sure to visit and support your local vintage dealer. (Your wallet and your woman will thank you).  They preserve an essential part of our history and remind of us of the great legacy that we all continue to take part in.

The 1st Annual Gentlemen's Vintage Show

Alright men, it's like Christmas in November.  If you need a few select accessories to impart some new life into your wardrobe, you can't miss this event.  Good clothes cost good money, so for most of us that means having a somewhat limited wardrobe, but a few new bowties, pocket squares and a good fedora can totally elevate your style. 

Take a tape measure or if you have a friend who sews, that's even better. Make sure to look inside the garments.  Many older garments have "outlets". This extra fabric at the seams  would allow the garment to be let out as the wearer grew. This goes for pants hems too.  You only need 1/4" allowance to hem a pair of pants. This is done by using another fabric to create a facing. So keep that in mind too.  (Contact me if you need details!) Finally, remember cost per wear. A fifty-five dollar vintage bowtie, you can wear twenty times a year and look great in for the rest of your life is a good deal.  Even if you change your mind after a few years you can recover some of the expense on E-bay. Oh, and the cost-per-wear concept only works if you buy classics.  Fashionistas are forever at the mercy and whim of fickle designers, whose primary responsibility is to ensure you and your cash go seperate ways.  If their style sense is so good, why does it change year after year?

Happy Hunting and hope to see you there!

An easy, elegant daytime look using vintage pieces with a few top quality new pieces. Fedora is vintage Dobbs, I think  I paid around fifty dollars for it. My shirt is the Keswick collar custom fit from Prohibition Clothing.
The suspenders are vintage and cost around twenty five dollars. Trouser are the Ellington Drape trousers also by Prohibition Clothing.

Iconic American Denim Style

You can't talk about American style without mentioning denim.  From it's humble, utilitarian roots, it has risen to the pinnacle of fashion and has an almost cult-like international following.  So every brand has to consider how it's pieces mix in with denim.  I wanted to bring you a few pictures of our pieces mixed into a unique vintage look.  There are so many cool ways to play these looks, I'm really excited about seeing how our customers do it their way. Here's a few interpretations of mine:

 Even in denim, I like to keep it elegant, sporty, and vintage-inspired by using a lot of small flourishes. I always start with great shoes and here I'm wearing a dark wash pair of Levi's with a boot cut over cap-toes from Allen Edmonds.  My shirt is our Kent (Button-down) collar in a lavender oxford. I paired this with a navy & lavender Repeal Club tie in a nice full windsor knot. The vest is our Barrymore Classic in a navy pinstripe flannel. I dropped in a lilac gingham pocket square as an extra little flourish. The tortoise shell reading glasses are unfortunately a neccesity, but these from Classic Specs do look nice. Finally, our vintage newsboy cap in Tan Herringbone.

In the next pic you'll see I'm working off the same base.  It's great to be able to build a lot of different looks from a few key pieces. My shirt is our Chatham (Polo) collar in a cranberry vintage stripe. The jacket is our workhorse, the Period Perfect Navy Blazer.  A nice bowtie, a pocket square, and I'm elegant enough for reservations,  but still easy enough for a few whiskey cocktails at the Clover Club. Oh, and since I'm almost a gentleman, I'm rarely sans a cap. My current fave is this tan herringbone newsboy.                                       

The final outfit is a sporty, narrative outfit inspired by the Great Depression. Overalls were common attire for working men and merchants. I've stepped mine up a bit by adding a Chatham collar shirts and bowtie. I draped a pocket square in the pocket and on the left strap used a vintage pin that reads "vote dry". Finished with my cap du jour.  Don't miss the heavy brogue boots! I promise to some more specialized blogs on shoes and how to go spiffy to spectacular using small accessories to set your style apart.

Manhattan Vintage Clothing Show (Oct 21st & 22nd)

Looking for a few select pieces to elevate your style?  Make sure you check out the Manhattan Vintage Show happening on Fri and Saturday this week.
Measure a few garments you have that fit well and write down the key measurements, then make sure to take a tape measure to the show.  This will help you assess garments you can't try on.  You should also pay attention to the seam allowances and outlets that allow a garment to be altered.  As a maker, I'm always looking for interesting details and finishing touches that lend an air of authenticity to the clothes we make.
Hope to see you there.

Prohibition Clothing presents the Iconic T-Shirt

We just received a re-order of the Iconic Tee Shirts and they are now available at the pop-up shop. Front image features key elements of Prohibition cleverly interwoven into a storied Nouveau graphic.  Back has the "Repeal Club" logo.
100% Cotton, Designed in Brooklyn, and made in the USA.

Prohibition Clothing Sale on Iconic Ties

Based on our ebay pop-up store stats, quite a few people have these iconic ties on their wish list, so we're reducing the prices to $38.00 for the next 10 days.  I'm seeing (and wearing) a lot of bow ties now, but a nice full windsor still tugs at my heart strings.

More Iconic American Vintage Style Pics

Short post tonight, since I'm a bit weary after 4 hours of swing dancing classes.  As promised, I want to continue to give you visual examples of IAV style. Let's go straight to the pics.

This is typical outfit for me that incorporates a few of my favorite elements.  As always, we start with great shoes.  Your shoes set the tone for the entire outfit, so buy the best quality you can afford and maintain them meticulously.  My cap toes are Allen-Edmonds, which are made here in the USA and have a welted sole you can replace.  They also offer a reburishing program.

My trousers are a soft, wool herringbone in our Barrow Hollywood style. These are easy drape cuts and I wear them with suspenders, so the high-waist can show.  All of our trousers have button-flys to avoid unsightly bulging when one sits.

With the cool fall weather coming in, I've thrown an easy shawl collared sweater on  instead of a jacket. This is the casual kind of elegance, I refer to as il Nuovo Formale (The New Elegance). Approachable, romantic and appropriate for the man about town.





Under the sweater I'm wearing our Keswick Wing Collar in a custom fit. I love how this collar looks with a long tie, or bow tie.  This particular tie is our Tonal Stripe Iconic Tie and features a herringbone tonal background with whiskey bottles, newsboy caps and Tommy gun motifs. I added some vintage ray-bans which you can probably find on e-bay for about $100.  Remember, cost-per-wear! I've had mine for 3 years already and they are very well-made.  The green tint lenses are super cool and the frames are tortoise shell.  Finally,  our vintage newsboy seals the deal. This one is tan herringbone, but we offer lots of choices, so do check them out. That's the look du jour. Oh, if you're trying to put together a look of your own and have questions feel free to leave me a comment and I'll do my best to send you down the right path.



Swing-Out Style (Strictly for Solid Senders)

Ok, Ok, enough of the alliteration, but I want to start posting a few examples of Iconic American Vintage style every week.  Somewhere between getting our son, Nathaniel, ready for school and doing the million other things she does to take care of us, my wife's is passed the digi cam and I ask her to snap a few pics for me.  If she's had her coffee, all is right with the world, but if she hasn't then she's shooting blind. Oh, and I'm so not a model. I have two poses, Sears catalog, and Macy's sales flier. I thought if Juliette laid on the floor and shot the picture looking upward, I could go from 5'9" to 6'1". Well, it worked for Godzilla didn't it? I guess what I'm saying stay focused on the style!



So today I'm doing a Swing-Out Style, Collegiate-Inspired look. The shoes are two-tone, alligator-embossed, saddle shoes (though you can't see the contrast part in this pic). The Hollywood-waisted (no waistband) Barrow trousers are hung on vintage suspenders and drape lovely. See how they barely touch the leg and note the lack of creases, which adds to the slouchy feel (also means no ironing!). The shirt is our Depression (slim) fit and features our Kent button-down collar.  The tie is our Repeal Club Rep Stripe, with rich bands of burgundy and navy plus a sporty, RC crest at the bottom.  The jacket is our pleated, patch-pocket, Period Perfect Navy Blazer.  This grab-and-go jacket, can easily be worn 2 to 3 days a week and finishes any vintage-inspired outfit. The back is double-vented,  has a half-belt, and some great pleating details, so your style is strong on the send-out and return. And of course, the cap is our vintage newsboy. This one is a lovely, English wool herringbone.  I like to drape mine to one side for a little extra flair.  Ties, caps and tees are currently available through our E-bay pop-up shop.
http://stores.ebay.com/Prohibition-Clothing-Company?_trksid=p4340.l2563
 The tailoring website in underway, so stay tuned.



So that's today's look. I've been studying Swing and Lindy Hop at Dance Manhattan (http://www.dancemanhattan.com/) for about a year now, and an outfit like this certainly helps you look like a solid sender. Now if I could just smooth out my Texas Tommy.........

PBS Prohibition Documentary by Ken Burns & Lynn Novick aired tonight

I hope you're all tuning in to the PBS Prohibition documentary presented by Ken Burns & Lynn Novick.  It's edutainment at it's best and has human stories, gangster elements, women's rights, racism, corporate interests, religion and politics. Everything that touches on the question of American values and what it means to be American came into play in forging the passing of the 18th amendment.  I thought it was interesting to see that the revenue generated by the taxation of alcohol was so substantial that until the 16th Amendment (Income Tax) was passed, prohibition was basically not feasible from an economic point of view.  There are so many interesting angles and parallels between the contemporary struggles that we are facing as a nation, that this should be required viewing (Wall Street anyone?).

  Oh, and there's great style too, partially because these were tough times and people had less, so things were worn more.  Part of having a great signature style is having a few really unique and well made items that you wear often enough to feel very relaxed in, and that people automatically associate with you.

Check the link here to see when it airs in your zip code:  http://www.pbs.org/kenburns/prohibition/tv-schedules/ 

or watch it online at:  http://www.pbs.org/kenburns/prohibition/watch-video/#id=2082675582

Don't forget to double-up by catching Boardwalk Empire afterward.

Clientele Pictures from the Jazz Age Lawn Party, August 2011

Our newsboy cap and Gable Peak lapel Jacket on style icon J. Michael

Our newsboy cap on this dashing duo.

Our Driver Cap and Calloway Deco Pleat Jacket. Great grooming, a lovely dame, and an easy style.

Simply Charming in our vintage Newsboy Cap

The Modern Vintage style. Slim suspenders and a low rise trouser for a uniquely modern approach.  Our driver cap adds the finishing touch.



Love the beard, the glasses, the brightness and the seamless way our Driver cap blends in.


Thought I'd share a few pictures of some of our clientele from the Jazz Age Lawn Party in August.  One of the great things about making elements of style is the chance to interact and learn from people who patronize the brand.  These guys already have a sense of themselves and an easy confidence, so they elevate the product and just take it to another level. Can an inanimate object really be cool? I'm a skeptic.  I think the object is ultimately defined by the character of the wearer and for that I'm truly grateful and appreciative of the clients we get to work with.

As you pull together your own look for the fall, remember in terms of style, a hat is only second to good shoes. (But, we don't make those! I'll scoop you on who does shoes right, in a future blog). 


Besides, a hat draws attention to your face, which gives you a chance to make eye contact.  In my experience, a lot of lovely things begin with a glance. Plus, you can easily wear a cap three or four times per week. When you consider cost-per-wear (a concept I'll elaborate on in the future), they're a great value. Be sure check out our offerings by clicking into our: e-bay pop-up shop .  


If you want to come to Brookyn, e-mail me to make an appointment: cmiller AT prohibitionclothing DOT com. I'll be glad to work with you personally and there's always a little rye whiskey or St.Germaine to be had.  After all, we are the Prohibition Clothing Company.

Defining Iconic American Vintage Style

I've been spending a lot of time contemplating what is Iconic American Vintage Style?  It's something so natural and innate to me, but I want to define it more clearly for others.  Iconic to me, means reducing things down to the essentials and executing them in a timeless way that seems almost larger than life.  To be American is to be a part of the grand experiment.  It means the eclectic energy and storied history of amazing times like the Prohibition era.  It is belonging and being an outcast simultaneously. It is the frenzied search for identity in a place where almost anything is possible. Vintage makes me think of fine wine, of things made in this country and the pride that generates.  It is a nostalgic longing for a simpler time where good music, friends and an honest days work was enough. It is faint scent of perfume from a letter written to you by a lover, carefully saved over the years and the slight ache in your heart as you reread it.  It is Miles Davis, Kind of Blue and the melancholy sentiment that comes with acknowledging that the simpler times of the past are forever gone.


So, with all of these cherished moments in mind, I spread a soft piece of wool across the table and picked up my shears in an effort to find this same truth and simplicity in modern life.  Over the next weeks, I'll be posting some pictures to give you some sense of the results.  A little history, a bit of romance, the American experience and a sense of personal style.  I hope you find these clothes as evocative as I do.


-Corey

Introducing the return of Iconic American Vintage Style

As we round the corner into cooler weather, one can only begin to think fondly of Fall.  I remember the first day of school and the excitement of new clothes, seeing friends after a summer apart, and the anxious feeling of beginning a new journey.  And so I found this feeling familiar, as I embarked on the creation of a timeless way of dressing that is both masculine and lovely, classic and contemporary. Considered creation (and consumption) means being free from the bonds of change for it's own sake and the wake of waste that mentality brings.  These are the clothes of your father's father. Of strong and gentle men with an easy confidence and a love for simple living.  There is art and poetry in each of us. In the slight tilt of your newsboy cap and the crisp roll of your shirt sleeves. Or is the way your trousers drape, hung from your shoulders by grosgrain and leather? Maybe life and art don't imitate each other, but move together in a casual, intimate way like the ocean and the sand. Two old lovers and a bottle of Chianti in the back of a cozy, jazz club. So much communication and so little need to use words.  As the season changes and nature implores you with her fall palette of rust, browns, and warm greys, I wish you the beautiful anxiety of a grand undertaking. Whether it be a new lover, business or project of passion how lucky we are to fall in love again. Oh, and if you find yourself in need of a slouchy trouser or reliable cap to accompany you on your quest, do let us know.