Triple-Distilled Style Defined

We frequently hear the term distilled in reference to the production of fine spirits, but I wanted to elaborate a bit on a term I coined, "Triple-Distilled Style".  Dictionary.com defines distillation as "to extract the essential elements of; to refine." How many times have you seen a product at retail and wondered how the hell did that thing make it this far?  To me, making great products is not so much about restricting the creative process, as it is critically editing down ideas using multiple filters. 

In this case, I wanted to work on some cool, sports-inspired, back panels to ensure our jackets were unusually attractive from both viewpoints.  I drew a basic jacket back and quickly replicated it via computer.  Then I made several copies and began sketching different arrangements of details.  This was a brainstorming stage, so there was very little mental editing and I ended up with about 36 sketches.

From those 36 sketches, I selected about 10 that I felt were top contenders.  I drafted a jacket back pattern and then made a pattern for each variation.  Each of these was then sewn up into a mock-up panel that I could pin onto a basic jacket and review on the form or on hangers as shown.

From those ten mock-ups, I landed on seven backs to sample, some of which needed minor modifications to achieve the desired effects. These were then made into actual jackets, which I finally reduced to four.  Seeing the details on the body and how they move allows the final level of refinement.  Elastic is added at certain points to ensure action pleats function and then automatically snap back into place.  Yokes are adjusted to make sure they appear perfectly horizontal based on the figure of our fit model.  Finally, I traveled to the factory to review each jacket in person with the patternmaker and tailors. Some of these details have not been cut for over 100 years, so combining my engineering and cutting experience with that of seasoned tailors and bespoke pattern cutters really allowed us to leverage a tremendous amount of knowledge to make exceptional products. 






A prototype in progress

 Unfortunately, I'm not sharing all of the results of that collaboration with you just yet. Great things take time, attention and ultimately love.   But rest assured this "Triple-Distillation" process; 36 sketches to 10 mock-ups, 10 mock-ups to 7 samples, 7 samples to 4 actual approved styles, which then undergo further refinement, yields beautiful and well-designed clothing.  These elements of style, historically inspired, and meticulously crafted, are perfect for making a little history of your own.

Dream freely, think critically, respect and honor the needs of your clients and suppliers. I'd like to think maybe someone will wear one of those jackets to a first date with his wife-to-be, or on a 50th anniversary dinner with his high school sweetheart. My motivation always comes from the center of my chest, from my son, my beautiful wife.  And with those thoughts, I humbly offer garnish for the lovely and rich life I sincerely hope you are living.

Be Free.

Gentlemen's Vintage Show Recap

I hope you all got a chance to go to the 1st Gentleman's Vintage Show last week, it was hopping.  There were all kinds of tasty bits and pieces to send you straight to the front of the style line.  I only had a few hours to work the show, so my first goal was to get a quick overview of the vendors. New York based, Amacord always has great pieces and it was at their booth I found this amazing jacket.  This garment had several details that instantly grabbed me.  I'm a big fan of smartly-cut, short jackets.  Modern bomber style jackets (with rib bottoms) are usually hip length, because companies try to make their clothing appeal to as many people as possible (overly democratic). The outside of this jacket is a dense twill fabric which feels like wool and polyester with a little nylon.  The interior lining is all wool. There are no hand pockets.  I think the deep pockets were made for holding folded paperwork since this jacket was part of a  delivery uniform from the Duvenoy Bakery. There's also a stitched pen pocket on the left side.  The sleeves are angled forward at the elbow which makes sense, as the wearer probably spent considerable time driving or carrying things, both action that require a bent arm position.  The collar has an interesting partial stiffener in it that makes it roll nicely.  I'm going to make a pattern from it next week.  I'm thinking a nice wool herringbone and some pleated pockets for our version. 

As a maker, there were so many awesome details and good ideas it was both inspiring and humbling all at once.  It definitely made me more committed to produce as much as possible here and just appreciative of American manufacturing overall.  Bobby of Boston had amazing Regatta jackets and an entire booth full of vintage ivy-league inspired goods. I picked up a few pocket squares and a scarf tie there.  The Archive, who was also at the women's vintage show, had top notch vintage pieces.  There were a couple of 1930's suits that were dreamy.  Next show I hope to find out what vendors do rentals, since I'm always interested in capturing authentic details from these clothes and offering them in shapes that fit the modern man.  

I'll definitely give you advance notice of the next event and in the meantime make sure to visit and support your local vintage dealer. (Your wallet and your woman will thank you).  They preserve an essential part of our history and remind of us of the great legacy that we all continue to take part in.