Wednesday, November 30, 2011

Triple-Distilled Style Defined

We frequently hear the term distilled in reference to the production of fine spirits, but I wanted to elaborate a bit on a term I coined, "Triple-Distilled Style".  Dictionary.com defines distillation as "to extract the essential elements of; to refine." How many times have you seen a product at retail and wondered how the hell did that thing make it this far?  To me, making great products is not so much about restricting the creative process, as it is critically editing down ideas using multiple filters. 

In this case, I wanted to work on some cool, sports-inspired, back panels to ensure our jackets were unusually attractive from both viewpoints.  I drew a basic jacket back and quickly replicated it via computer.  Then I made several copies and began sketching different arrangements of details.  This was a brainstorming stage, so there was very little mental editing and I ended up with about 36 sketches.

From those 36 sketches, I selected about 10 that I felt were top contenders.  I drafted a jacket back pattern and then made a pattern for each variation.  Each of these was then sewn up into a mock-up panel that I could pin onto a basic jacket and review on the form or on hangers as shown.

From those ten mock-ups, I landed on seven backs to sample, some of which needed minor modifications to achieve the desired effects. These were then made into actual jackets, which I finally reduced to four.  Seeing the details on the body and how they move allows the final level of refinement.  Elastic is added at certain points to ensure action pleats function and then automatically snap back into place.  Yokes are adjusted to make sure they appear perfectly horizontal based on the figure of our fit model.  Finally, I traveled to the factory to review each jacket in person with the patternmaker and tailors. Some of these details have not been cut for over 100 years, so combining my engineering and cutting experience with that of seasoned tailors and bespoke pattern cutters really allowed us to leverage a tremendous amount of knowledge to make exceptional products. 




A prototype in progress
 Unfortunately, I'm not sharing all of the results of that collaboration with you just yet. Great things take time, attention and ultimately love.   But rest assured this "Triple-Distillation" process; 36 sketches to 10 mock-ups, 10 mock-ups to 7 samples, 7 samples to 4 actual approved styles, which then undergo further refinement, yields beautiful and well-designed clothing.  These elements of style, historically inspired, and meticulously crafted, are perfect for making a little history of your own.

Dream freely, think critically, respect and honor the needs of your clients and suppliers. I'd like to think maybe someone will wear one of those jackets to a first date with his wife-to-be, or on a 50th anniversary dinner with his high school sweetheart. My motivation always comes from the center of my chest, from my son, my beautiful wife.  And with those thoughts, I humbly offer garnish for the lovely and rich life I sincerely hope you are living.

Be Free.


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